Height of Lhotse Mountain / Peak is 8501m or 27890 feet Our Lhotse expedition uses the same logistical support for the trek and acclimatisation on Lobuche as our Everest Members. This expedition is designed for experienced expeditioners who have previously climbed Everest. As the couloir is very narrow and has rock fall danger, we only accept a very small number (maximum 4 Members) on the route. Starting from C3 on the Lhotse face, the route follows the normal Everest trail up to the traverse over to the Yellow Band. Beyond the Yellow Band and close to the Base of the Geneva Spur, Lhotse climbers make a sharp right turn, taking them directly up a very steep slope up to Lhotse C4. Tent spaces are cut out of this steep slope just beneath and to the right side of the Lhotse couloir.
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Climbers depart from Lhotse C4 in the dark, crossing an open area before entering the Lhotse couloir. The Lhotse couloir is approximately 600 metres, of mostly consistent 50 to 60 degree snow slope. The couloir varies in width, but is generally narrow. Several short sections are steep, involving rock scrambling. The couloir is well-protected, with stellar views of the SE ridge of Everest. At the top left of the couloir, you reach the summit block which is a steep section of rock climbing that tops out on the tiny summit where there is a large cornice. From the summit you have a unique and unparalleled view of Mt. Everest.
On the descent, there is a series of abseils, before arm-wrapping back into C4. Then you follow the normal fixed line traverse on the standard Everest Route back to C3.
Climbing:
An early attempt on Lhotse was by the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya. They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention, during September and October, to the West Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which they achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. Under Schneider's direction they completed the first map of the Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition also made several short films covering local cultural topics, and made a number of first ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu region.
The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition. On May 12, 1979, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.
On December 31, 1988 Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the first winter ascent of Lhotse.
On May 31, 2009, Um Hong-Gil, a South Korean climber, became the first achiever to gain the full accomplishment of ascent of Lhotse Shar.
As of December 2008, 371 climbers have summitted Lhotse and 20 have died. On May 23rd, 2010, Tamara Lunger was the youngest female climber, who reached the main summit.
An early attempt on Lhotse was by the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya. They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention, during September and October, to the West Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which they achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. Under Schneider's direction they completed the first map of the Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition also made several short films covering local cultural topics, and made a number of first ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu region.The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition. On May 12, 1979, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.
On December 31, 1988 Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the first winter ascent of Lhotse.
On May 31, 2009, Um Hong-Gil, a South Korean climber, became the first achiever to gain the full accomplishment of ascent of Lhotse Shar.
As of December 2008, 371 climbers have summitted Lhotse and 20 have died. On May 23rd, 2010, Tamara Lunger was the youngest female climber, who reached the main summit.
Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and hotel transferDay 02: Official formalities in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Expedition preparation
Day 04: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding
Day 05: Trek to Namche
Day 06: Rest at Namche
Day 07: Trek to Tengboche
Day 08: Trek to Dingboche
Day 09: Trek to Lobuche
Day 10: Rest day for acclimatization
Day 11: Trek to Base Camp
Day 12-39: Climbing period
Day 40: Cleaning of base camp
Day 41: Trek to Dingboche
Day 42: Trek to Tengboche
Day 43: Trek to Namche
Day 44: Trek to Lukla
Day 45: Fly to Kathmandu
Day 46: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 47: Airport transfer for international flight.
SERVICES INCLUDE
- Peak permit, all govt. taxes & garbage deposit.
- 6 (four) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis.
- Round trip airfare and domestic airport taxes
- Flight Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu.
- Custom clearances, excess baggage's and airport taxes
- Liaison officer
- One head Sardar/Guide
- Cook(s) and kitchen boy(s)
- High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One Sherpa per two clients).
- Necessary number of porters
- All necessary climbing hardware gears
- All base camp meals + high altitude food (Back pack brand)
- All necessary camping and kitchen gears
- High quality tents for both base camp and high camps
- Gamov bag for medical propose
- Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose
- Walkie-talkie set with radio base
- Necessary EPI gas with burner
- Solar panel with batteries/ generator with fuel for power supply
- Northface jackets/sleeping bags for BC, if required.
- Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
- All airport/hotel transfers.
- City sightseeing before the expedition
- Medical and personal high risk insurance
- Major meals in KTM
- Personal natures of expenses
- Cost of electronic appliances
- Cost of emergency evacuation
- Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff & sherpas
- International air tickets & departure taxes
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