Baruntse Expedition

Nepal - An ascent on Baruntse (23,390ft / 7,129m) is an adventure for climbers wishing to summit a true Nepali peak. This remote expedition into the heart of the Khumbu culminates in a relatively short climb to the summit of this majestic 7,000er. Baruntse is among some of the highest peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Ama Dablam, and this expedition rewards you with spectacular views throughout.

After preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly direct to Lukla and begin the trek into the Hinku Valley, enjoying Sherpa country at its finest. The hike-in provides for excellent acclimatization as we head northward through the pristine alpine environment. On the way to Baruntse BC, we will climb Mera peak 6654m, a height trekking peak in Nepal as acclimatized climbing trip.

We'll establish Base Camp just above the Five Holy Lakes "Panch Pokhari" at 5,400m and one or two higher camps on the mountain. We'll ascend the 6,100m West Col before establishing Camp 1, where the long ridge leading to the summit is clearly visible. A tricky step at around 7,000m adds further spice to the climb. The route is generally a straightforward snow and ice climb and not technically demanding. On the way back, we will trek back via Amphu Lapcha pass - Namche, which gives you an interesting experiences of Everest region.  

ITINERARY

Day 01: Arrive in KTM, transfer to hotel

Day 02: City tour & necessary preparation

Day 03: Final gear sorting out & packing

Day 04: Fly Lukla 2200m. Trek to Piuyan, 2800m

Day 05: Pangom, 2800m

Day 06: Niumso, 2600m

Day 07: Strenuous trek Chetra Tenga forest camp, 3400m

Day 08: Moderately strenuous day Kothe, 3600m

Day 09: Trek to Tagnag, 4356m

Day 10: Acclimatization: Kusum Kaunguru Ridge & back to Tagnag, 4356m

Day 11: Trek Khare or Dig Kharka, 5025m

Day 12: Khare, rest & acclimatization, 5025m

Day 13: Khare, training at ice fall and checking/fitting of equipments

Day 14: Short steep walk to La and camp Mera La Camp, 5415m

Day 15: Mera la High Camp, 5800m

Day 16: Summit Mera Peak (6654m), Same day trek to Kongmo Dingma

Day 17: Hunku Valley, 5200m

Day 18: Mt Baruntse base camp (5,400m)

Day 19 to 32: Climbing phase and summit attempt (7,129m)

Day 33: Trek to Panch Pokhari, 5800m

Day 34: Corss Amphu passes 5845m & Trek Yak Kharka

Day 35: Trek to Chukung, 4370m

Day 36: Trek to Pangnouche, 3930m

Day 37: Trek to Namche, 3440m

Day 38: Trek to Lukla, 2800m

Day 39: Fly to Kathmandu from Lukla.

Day 40: Free day in KTM, Group celebration dinner.

Day 41: Fly back to home or extension of the trip baruntse expediton, mount baruntse, baruntse with mera peak climbing, climbing to baruntse mountain, baruntse peak with mera, mera peak and baruntse peak mountaineering.
 
SERVICE INCLUDES

• Peak royalty, national park fees and govt. taxes.
• 4 (four) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis.
• Domestic airfares and domestic airport tax.
• Domestic cargo & excess baggages.
• Liaison office fee.
• One head Sardar/Guide.
• Cook(s) and necessary kitchen staff.
• Required number of porter and yaks with herder.
• All necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes.
• High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One climbing Sherpa per two clients).
• All food including available high altitude food for both trek and climb.
• Hot drinks (tea, Coffee, chocolate, Juice etc)
• All necessary camping and kitchen gears for both trek and climb.
• Necessary tent at BC (kitchen, toilet, dinning etc)
• Best quality high altitude tents.
• Solar panel for recharging & power supply purpose
• Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose only.
• Gamov bag at the base camp for the medical propose
• First aid medical kit
• Walkie-talkie set with radio base.
• Satellite phone for emergency purpose ($ 4 per minute for personal call)
• EPI gas with burner.
• 4 season sleeping bag & down jackets on request
• Insurance of climbing Sherpa, local team members and Liaison officer.
• Arrangement of necessary official documents.
• All airport/hotel transfers. Celebration meal.

SERVICE EXCLUDES

• Nepal entry visa costs (~$30.00)
• visa extension fees; airport departure taxes
• government taxes for communication equipment;
• personal equipment (sleeping bag, down jacket, etc.)
• emergency rescue charges,
• if required; personal expenses (e.g. phone calls, laundry, alcohol, soft drinks, bottled water, souvenirs, etc.);
• main meals (lunch & dinner) ;
• guide and porter tips;
• any loss due to unforeseen circumstances such as flight delays,
• road blockage due to landslide, etc.

Baruntse Climbing Equipments:
This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for Baruntse. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by Eric Simonson, the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

Footwear:

Running shoes and/or sport sandals: For travel & easy walking.

Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a vibram sole.

Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended (Scarpa, La Sportiva).

Down or synthetic camp booties: Any brand with thick foam soles.

Lightweight socks: Two to three pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)

Midweight socks: Two to three pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)

Clothing:

Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)

Midweight long underwear tops: Zip T- neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia Capilene, North Face, Mountain Hardware)

Lightweight long underwear bottoms: Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op.

Midweight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)

Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton. Running shorts also work well for underwear.

Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work. (North Face, Patagonia, REI)

Jacket synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)

Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardware Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.

Down insulated jacket, expedition weight w/ hood: (Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, North Face).

Down pants: Expedition quality, (Mountain Hardware)

Waterproo /breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have hood, pants must have full-length side zips (Mountain Hardware, North Face).

Head & Hand Gear

Liner gloves: Lightweight Synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)

Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)

Insulated climbing gloves: such as Black Diamond Guide

Gore-Tex mittens w/ liners: Expedition Weight, (Outdoor Research)

. Bandanna: Three or four traditional cotton style

Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.

Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.

Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Capilene Balaclava under a thicker fleece one.

Accessories

Sunglasses #1: One pair high quality 100% UV 100%IR, for travel and lower elevations.

Sunglasses #2: For high altitude. One pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction sunglasses. Side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not required, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum coverage of the eyes to protect them from bright light on snow. (Julbo)

Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)

Gaiters w/ reinforced lowers: (Outdoor Research)

Headlamp w/ spare bulb: (Petzl or Black Diamond)

Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.

Climbing Equipment

Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. 60 cm length is good for most people. Shaft should be straight, not curved. (Grivel or Black Diamond) You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”. Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one.

Extra ice tool: Short technical tool is OK, hammer head is preferable.

Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel or Black Diamond)

Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off, lightweight, fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)

Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners)

Perlon cord: Also known as accessory cord in some gear shops. 20 feet of 6mm.

Ascenders: One Pair (Petzl)

Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid

Climbing helmet

Camping Gear

Backpack: 5000 cubic inches or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s Rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (North Face, Wildthings, Osprey)

Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and while touring in cities. (Lowe Alpine Attack Summit)

Sleeping bag: Expedition Quality rated to at least minus 20 F. (North Face, Mountain Hardwear) Second Sleeping Bag: Once high camps are established you will not want to carry your sleeping bag back and forth. Base camp bag does not need to be a warm as your expedition bag rating.

Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)

Foam pad: (Ridgerest)

Water bottles: Two 1-quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles)

Lightweight steel thermal bottle: One liter size. (Nissan, Outdoor Research)

Pee bottle: One 1 quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles)

Pee funnel for women: (Freshette)

Pack towel: Small or Medium size (PackTowl). Do not bring “terrycloth”, Bandanas work in a pinch.

Trekking poles: (Leki, Black Diamond,) Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten.

Swiss army knife: Remember not to leave in carry-on bags for any international or domestic flight.

Large mug, plastic bowl, Lexan fork and spoon: Lightweight metal is O.K.

Medical & Personal

Sunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (L’Oreal)

Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand

Toiletry kit: Toothbrush, toothpaste, lotion, alcohol-based anti-bacterial hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soap, comb/brush, shave kit, lighter, small long-burning candle, needle/thread, throat lozenges (bring travel size bottles to keep you kit small).

First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, little of hydrogen peroxide, neosporin-type suave, Nu-skin spray, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins, small bottle of water purification tablets. Include any prescription travel meds that might prescribed by your doctor (antibiotics, diamox, sleep aids).

Zip-loc bags: Always useful.

Baby wipes

Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.

Travel Items

Expedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches. Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers. These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”).

Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp. Most soft sided “carry on’ type bags work well. (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “Carry On”) You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.

Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling.

Lightweight long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable.

Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: One pair

Lightweight pants: One pair

City clothes for Kathmandu and Bangkok: Casual, one or two changes. Kathmandu is warm in the daytime, cool in the evenings. If you fly through Bangkok, it is hot and tropical.



Journal

Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non - rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.

Memory cards and / or Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. You will take lots of photos!