Everest, Northeast Ridge

All of our Tibet 8,000 metre expeditions enter the region via Nepal. In 2006, our Everest North Ridge climbers will fly from Kathmandu into Lhasa, one week after the Sherpas and other staff have entered Tibet overland at the border crossing on the Friendship Bridge. This will enable us to establish base camp early, before team members arrive.

Beyond the border post at Xangmu, the expedition will drive to Nylam and the Tibetan plateau, where the team will spend 2 nights acclimatising at 3,800 meters. From here, the road climbs steadily to gain the plateau proper and a full two days rest is taken at Tingri. Now the road swings towards base camp, where we arrive after a day's drive. On the way we cross the Pang La, where we stop to get a view of Everest, with the North Ridge just visible. This is one of many mountains in a magnificent vista of the Himalaya, which spreads over the entire horizon, taking in Cho Oyu and Makalu, among many other Himalayan Giants.

Once in base camp, the Sherpas set off to establish advance base camp (ABC). Having gained more acclimatisation, we follow after a few days and make a leisurely ascent using 2 intermediary camps to ensure as gradual an ascent as possible to arrive at 6,440 metres in our camp nestled below the North Col. To this point, our journey will have been achieved by jeep and then by yak but, from here, the climb starts in earnest.

Above advance base camp, we will have 4 camps:
* Camp One - 7,066 metres on the North Col, located on snow.
* Camp Two - 7,400 metres located at the head of the snow ramp that stretches up from the Col - the camp is reasonably level, but prone to high winds that rake the north face.
* Camp Three - 7,900 metres - on rocky shelves.
* Camp Four 8,400 metres - Summit Launch Pad - on rocky ground, but sometimes on ledges cut into snow, depending on snowfall in the preceding season. The camp gives access to the North East Ridge, which leads to the top, via the Three Steps.

The aim of our first encounter with the mountain will be to acclimatise without unduly stressing our bodies, beyond what is necessary to achieve the essential altitudes required to acclimatise. Therefore, small rucksacks will be carried with personal equipment only (the carrying all group stores and loads will be a task for the Sherpas).

Having been in ABC for a few days, slowly allowing our bodies to adjust to the refined atmosphere, we will make our way up relatively easy, but physically tough, snow slopes to the North Col, at 7,066 metres. This is a comfortable camp location, with great views across the North Face and back over the upper reaches of the East Rongbuk Glacier. However, it is not expansive, and our relatively early arrival in Tibet should ensure a good site for our camp. We will plan on spending one night on the Col, to allow sufficient exposure to the altitude in order to kick-start our bodies to prepare for the further extremes of altitude to come. For some, this might be enough. For others, a trip to 7,400 metres (or even beyond) might suit their acclimatisation profile better, so the option will be available to climb to camp 2 for a visit there before making a descent to advance base camp.

There would be no point in climbing higher on Everest at this stage - as bodies would deteriorate rather than strengthen. Therefore, leaving the Sherpas to fulfil the task of preparing and stocking the high camps, with tents, food, and oxygen for the climb, the main team will make its way slowly back to base camp, for a sustained period of rest and preparation. Finally, once all camps are established, and everyone is refreshed, acclimatised and well fed, we will move back up the East Rongbuk glacier to our home at advance base camp. As soon as the weather is forecast as being sufficiently well-settled, we aim for the top, in one series of moves taking in a camp a day until we summit 5 days after leaving abc.

Experience Required
To join the Everest team you will need to have extensive mountaineering experience. This should include previous high altitude experience of at least 6,000 metres, mixed with a multitude of Alpine mountaineering and, preferably, you will have taken part in a previous 8,000-metre expedition. We have found that those who have previously been to an 8,000-metre peak have a considerably better chance of getting to the top of Everest. Exceptionally, climbers who have not had the chance of climbing an 8,000 metre peak but have climbed mountains such as Huascaran, Illimani, Denali or similar, could well consider Everest if they have the necessary commitment and determination.

Although fixed ropes will be used where appropriate, expedition members must have the ability to climb mixed ground graded AD, or equivalent, un-roped and be adequately competent and self-sufficient to move between and to live in high mountain camps un-aided or supervised.

 

Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival in kathmandu, move to Hotel.
Day 02: One and Half hour drive to Nagarkot. Accommodation in luxury tents for acclimatization.
Day 03: Early morning sunrise view of the mountains. Visit some highest points to observe.
Day 04: Fly to Lhasa. Overnight at hotel.
Day 05: Visit to Potala Jokhang and Barkhor.
Day 06: Visit to Drepung and Sera monasteries
Day 07: Free day in Lhasa.
Day 08: Drive to Shigatse(3900m). Overnight in Hotel.
Day 09: Drive to Shekar(4352m). Overnight in hotel
Day 10: Drive to Everest Base Camp(EBC). Overnight in Tent
Day 11-13: Acclimatization in EBC.
Day 14: Trek to Intermediate Camp(6200m).
Day 15: Trek to Advance Base Camp(6400m).
Day 16-53: Mt.Everest Climbing period.
Day 54: Return to advance base camp.
Day 55: Return to Base Camp.
Day 56: Cleaning of Base Camp.
Day 57: Drive to Nyalam. Overnight in hotel
Day 58: Drive to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.  

 

Service Includes:

• Flight to Lhasa Airport.
• Porters/Yaks to carry equipments and food all the way to BC & back.
• Full board accommodation en-route to/from Base camp.
• One head Climbing guide/Sardar.
• Cook & kitchen boys at BC.
• Experienced & skillful High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One Sherpa for one Client)
• POISK Oxygen (08 bottles per client & 06 per Sherpa).
• Mask & regulator mask set ( must be return after the Expedition).
• Highly preferable meals at BC with complete hot drink & normal beverages.
• Exported High altitude food for higher camps (ready to eat food).
• Best quality Tents at BC single or twin sharing as per the client desire.
• All necessary kitchen equipment.
• Best quality Dinning tent with enough no of teble & chairs, plus inside the tent, we will set Gas Heaters to make the Dinning hall enough warm.
• Complete carpeting inside the dinning tent.
• Comfortable & portable wooden toilet at the base camp.
• A nice portable wooden shower room with hot water at the base camp.
• High quality high altitude tents for above BC use.
• Necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes.
• Enough EPI (high altitude) gases with burners for higher camps use.
• Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose.
• Radio walkie-talkie set to each client with base station & permit cost.
• Satellite phone for emergency purpose ($ 4 chargeable for personal call).
• Generator/solar panel with accessories for recharging & power supply purpose.
• Gammov bag for medical purpose.
• Insurance of all local team members.
• All airport/hotel transfers.
• Day tour program around KTM.
• Celebration meal & pre-briefing.
• Expedition blessing Puja arrangement at northside BC.
• Last but most important COMPLETE SET UP INTERM/MIDDLE CAMP with sleeping bags, sleeping mattress, food & drinking stuff & cooking crew.

Service Excludes:

• Personal insurance ( Suggested to have evacuation policy as well)
• Nepal visa
• Major meals in Kathmandu.
• Personal climbing gears.
• Personal natures expenses.
• Cost of emergency evacuation.
• Summit bonus & Tips.

List of Gear and Equipment of Everest Climbing:

Footwear:
Double Plastic Climbing Boots with Aveolite Liners. Good quality plastic shells with inner boots. Avoid tight fit with heavy socks. Sugg: Koflach Artis Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, or One Sport Everest. Fully Insulated Overboots. Suggested: 40 Below K2 Overboots, Outdoor Research Brooks Rangers. Not needed w/ One Sport Everest. Light hiking boots. Crampons. With "step in" bindings and flat rather than "cookie cutter" frame rails. Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres, Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooth. Gaiters. Suggested: Outdoor Research Expedition "Crocodiles". Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots. Booties. Polar guard. Optional. Wool or pile socks. 4 pair of Heavyweight wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times. Liner Socks. 4 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin. This reduces incidence of blisters and hot-spots. Vapor barrier socks. Optional.

Climbing Tools:
Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a 60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool; over 6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Suggested: SMC Himalayan or Black Diamond Alpamayo. Carabiners (4) Locking; (6) Regular. 2 HMS Twistlock & 2 small screwgate lockers; 6 standard ovals recommended. Ascenders (2). Petzls recommended. One right and one left. Rappel device. 1 Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid. Perlon. 40 ft of flexible 6mm. Alpine Climbing Harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to step through any part of it. Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness or Alpine Bod w/ modification. Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles. Optional, but recommended. Suggested: Leki, Life Link.

Technical Clothing:
Expedition weight underwear. 1 pair Polypro or Capilene. Lightweight Underwear. 2-3 pair top & bottom, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder). Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options. One set of white for intense sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for faster drying gives the most versatility. Suggested: North Face Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or Patagonia Capilene. Pile Jacket. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300). A full-zip version is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pull-over. Windstopper fleece is NOT recommended due to reduced breathability. Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent. Pile Pants. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300) with full separating side zippers (This is very important for ventilation and for ease of dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb). Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent. Down Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be windproof. Suggested: Feathered Friends Helios or Volant. Down Parka. (Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood) Suggested: North Face Baltoro, Mt. Hardwear Absolute Zero, Marmot 8000meter, or Feathered Friends Rock & Ice. Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood. (Bibs recommended) For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit. We also require full separating side zippers on the pants. Suggested: North Face Mtn. Bib or Mtn. Light Pant, Mtn. Hardware Exposure Bib or Ethereal Pant.

Sleeping:
Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -300F). Goose down preferred for bulk & weight. Suggested: North Face Inferno, Feathered Friends Snow Goose, or Marmot CWM. 2 Sleeping Pads. One, 3/4 or full-length closed-cell foam Ridge Rest and One, 3/4 length or full-length Therma-Rest w/repair kit.

Mitts & Gloves:
2 Pair Synthetic Gloves. Bunting or fleece gloves which will fit comfortably inside mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of keeping hands warmer when wet than lighter polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested: North Face, Patagonia. 2 Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts. Outdoor Research Expeditions w/double liners or North Face Down Mitts. Should be big enough so that gloves fit inside pile liners. Hand warmer. Optional.

Headgear:
Baseball Cap or other Sun Hat. One with a good visor to shade the nose and eyes. Include a bandanna to shade the neck. Wool or pile ski hat. Make sure ears are covered. Balaclava (1) Heavy weight, (1) Lightweight. Suggested: North Face. Heavyweight must fit over lightweight. Neoprene face mask. Optional Head lamp (Plenty of extra bulbs & batteries). Suggested: Petzl Zoom or Artic. 2 Pairs of Glacier glasses. 100% UV, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have full side covers. We highly recommend a removable nose guard. Suggested: Bolle, RayBan, Julbo Round "Arc". If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (dark gray or green). No more than 6% light transmission. Ski Goggles, 1 pair. 100% UV & IR. Bolle's Chrono work well. Climbers with glasses try X-700, they fit over glasses.

Camping:
Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable to 6,000 cu.in. Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight. Recommended: North Face, Kelty, Gregory. Daypack. Optional for trekking days. Swiss Army knife. Bic Lighter. 1 Liter Thermos. Cooking Gear: Cup: 16oz. plastic with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is spill resistant in the tent). Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan). Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity. Water Bottles: 2 liters minimum capacity. One, 1.5 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth. Hunnersdorf are recommended (they withstand temperature extremes and abuse better than Nalgene) No water bags or bladder systems, they freeze. Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth water bottle. Mark bottle clearly. Pee Funnel (for women). Suggested: Freshette. Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes. Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 2 sticks. Personal first aid kit. Aspirin, Moleskin, Adhesive tape, Band-Aids, personal medications.

Traveling:
Large duffel bags. 2 for transporting gear. Compression Stuff Sacks work well for reducing volume (optional) Especially for sleeping bags and clothing. 4 Plastic Bags. To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry and one large enough to line pack. Trash Compactor bags work the best. Travel clothes. Toiletry bag. Include toilet paper. Camera gear.